A Thousand Toriis

It was probably a scene from “Memoirs of a Geisha” that has popularized Kyoto’s torii tunnel more than anything else. In the film, the young female protagonist meets a well-heeled businessman who cheers her up by giving her a gift. Set to John Williams’ memorable film tune (“The Chairman’s Waltz”), we see her hurry through the tunnel on her way to the shrine to offer the gift in prayer.

Located on the outskirts of Kyoto, Fushimi Inari Shrine comprises a seemingly endless array of red torii gates, burial mounds, deity sculptures and other sacred objects. The sheer size and layout of the site can be intimidating to some. You could easily spend hours exploring and still not discover all of its hidden places and winding corners.

The shrine’s popularity, however, comes at a price. It’s one of Japan’s most popular tourist attractions. As such, it is overcrowded during the day, especially at weekends. The most obvious way to avoid the crowds is to focus on the more remote and less visited areas. Beyond the iconic tunnel, an intricate network of stairs and paths leads to the summit of Mt. Inari.

Fortunately, Fushimi Inari is open 24 hours a day and admission is free. You can visit when it’s almost empty, such as at sunrise. Or at night, when the slightly spooky atmosphere may even enhance your experience.

The shrine is within easy reach of Kyoto Station and is served by two lines, the JR Nara line and the Keihan main line.