A Thousand Torii

It is the torii tunnel that has put the Fushimi Inari Shrine on the tourist map. Walking through it creates a dreamlike sensation that is slightly disorienting, as if you’re entering another world.

The shrine’s iconic vermillion gates were used as the setting for a memorable scene in the film “Memoirs of a Geisha.” Accompanied by John Williams’ intense score, we see the young, heartbroken Chiyo running through the tunnel, praying for her future. This follows after she receives some words of encouragement from a powerful businessman, inspiring her lifelong ambition to become a geisha and enter his world.

Beyond the gates lies an endless array of hidden places, including burial mounds, deity sculptures and other sacred artifacts. Access is via an intricate network of stairs and paths leading to the summit of Mt. Inari. The whole complex is so vast that you could easily spend days exploring and still not run out of things to discover.

Almost Empty at Night

The shrine’s popularity, however, comes at a price. During the day, the lower areas around the torii tunnel are packed with tourists. One way to escape the crowds is to explore the more remote areas, where they thin out quickly.

Alternatively, you could visit early in the morning or even at night, when the site is almost empty. The shrine’s grounds are open 24 hours a day, and there are no fences or admission fees. You are certain to have a different experience in the dark compared to during the day.

The site is within easy reach of Kyoto Station and is served by two lines: the JR Nara line and the Keihan main line.